Simple Pedal Prototyping Breadboard

Version 1

For a while now, I have been using an old cardboard box with the basic inputs of a pedal haphazardly mounted to it to breadboard pedal designs. This thing fell apart faster than if I just threw it on the ground, but I kept using it. This project aims to fix this problem, and will likely be iterated upon later.

The main goal of this project was to work on my skills in Autodesk Fusion, as I only have minimal training in OnShape from high school. In my opinion, Fusion is much more professional and better suited for my purposes.

Please note that this project was started before this website was created, so the beginning parts are not as detailed as I would like.

Skilled Used:
Fusion
3D Printing
Soldering

To start, I took measurements of the breadboard along with the components mounted to the box. These were as follows:

Breadboard: 165mm X 165mm
2PDT Shaft (will be replaced by 3PDT): ~12mm
1/4” Female Connectors: ~10mm

I also wanted to mount some new components that were missing before. This includes an LED indicator and dedicated spot for a battery to be attached or removed to attach a dedicated power supply. The measurements were as follows:

Battery Hole: 27.5mm X 18.75mm, 46.5mm deep
5mm LED: 5mm

With these measurements written down, I just started making it in Fusion. I did no drafts, and didn’t even have a picture in mind of how it was supposed to look. I simply started designing with the idea of a base to mount the breadboard, short walls surrounding it, and one large wall to mount the common IO.

Obviously my skills in Fusion need work, especially in joints. I am fairly happy with how this turned out considering I went in to designing without a look in mind.

The next step is to send it over to my 3D printer. On a 255 X 255 X 255 mm bed, this took 2 total prints totaling 6.5h. From previous projects, I know that with my printer tolerances, a 5mm gap creates a very strong connection on another 5mm piece, but the outer parts tend to bend. At this point, I did a test fit of all parts. The three smaller walls have such a strong connection that I fear they will break if I try to remove them from the base, but all press-fit connections on the main wall and face plate are looser. This is not a problem, because I can just glue everything together after soldering the internals. Funnily enough, the LED has such a tight fit that I cannot push it in place more or remove it from the face plate. I actually do like the depth in the face plate though, as it is perfectly flush with the face.

This next step was fairly simple, just removing the parts from the old assembly, and putting them back in the new assembly. I added an LED with a 12k resistor and 3PDT, wired so the wire to the connection to the breadboard is grounded. This avoids a loud pop when activating the switch. The colors of the wires are a bit mixed up, as I was just running low on those colored wires. Not that it matters so much here, as it’s a simple circuit only to be seen here. The DC jack is out of the frame, and is wired for a typical 9V battery. I did this for simplicity so I can use this board for other projects using 9V, but guitar pedal conventions use center-negative power.

Here is the face plate on the block. I labeled the wires and IO, as well as using hot glue to secure them in place so they do not fall back in to the block.

Here is the final assembly. I just ripped the original breadboards (failed project included), managing to keep the double-sided tape on the boards.

I kept the input signal short, as I typically place the raw guitar signal on the top right. The output signal is made unnecessarily long, as I want to be able to reach the opposite corner of the board, routing around all components if needed.

The power cables were longer than intended, but I just left it as-is, because it gets the job done. In later versions of this board, I may run the cables under the board and solder them directly to the bottom of the breadboard.

What I’ve learned:

  • How to work with angled faces in Fusion

  • How not to organize components/bodies/sketches in Fusion

  • My printer cannot print a chamfer of 1.5 degrees

  • I need to learn/test ways of connecting printed parts before printing the full component

  • Get my homework done before I work on another project

  • Keep up with maintenance of my 3D printer

    Possible Revisions:

  • Create 2 power inputs with protections against reverse polarity and having both connected at the same time

  • Use a microcontroller to switch the effect on/off, and use RGB LED to indicate battery status

  • Fix some dimensions for a better fit, change connections, add modularity to mount potentiometers or switches to circuit.

  • Run power cables under the board, soldering them to bottom of the breadboard.

Hey! Thanks for reading through my first project showcase! I’m very excited to keep this up, even if no one ends up seeing it. I’ve learned a lot about the design process during this documentation, so I will definitely keep it up.

If there are any new projects you have in mind or changes to this project you would recommend, please let me know!